Although I am a big believer in a “no rules- anything goes” makeup application, I do believe there are basic principles women can follow to make sure their makeup is improving their appearance, not sabotaging it!
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Very often I see beautiful women that make common mistakes, which tempts me to physically pull them into my chair. So instead of resorting to such crazy action, I have decided to bring the chair to you; to reveal these mistakes and show you how easily they can be mended!
Halloween is upon us. This is one of the very few times, in my opinion, that it is acceptable to be wearing a mask. Learn how to match the foundation color to your natural skin tone (check out Meet Your Match: How to Choose the Right Foundation) so that there is no disconnect between your neck and your jawline. Then take a step back and confirm that your head looks like it belongs to the rest of your body. If it is too pale, add some bronzer and blush. Too dark? Try using a lighter shade of foundation.
It is of equal importance to choose a concealer that is the right color. This must be tested on the actual eye area, not only on the back of the hand. The discoloration often found around the eyes will cause a flesh toned concealer to give off a grey cast once applied. You would be surprised how different the color appears on top of dark circles, so do not be afraid to try out a shade that may initially seem too peachy.
Filling in the eyebrows will help to frame the face and accentuate your eye shape. Use your choice of brow product to lightly fill in bald spots and define your brow’s natural arch with short, wispy strokes. This will prevent a cartoon-ish looking expression. If you have extremely thin brows, use a wax, powder, or gel product containing fibers that recreate the look of a natural brow hair. Try Benefit Gimme Brow (www.BenefitCosmetics.com)
Improperly Blended Application
I am sure you have heard me say this more than once, but I will say it again: Blend, blend, blend! Blending is what separates the amateurs from the professionals. This is such an easy fix, and can be mastered in no time!
Blend your blush. Start at the apples of the cheeks and blend upwards towards the hair line. No clown circles or ‘80’s stripes, please!
Blend your eye shadow. Soften any noticeable lines by using a blending eye shadow brush such as Mac #224 Tapered Blending Brush (www.MacCosmetics.com.)
Blend your eyeliner. There is nothing wrong with a sharp clean line above your lashes, but when it comes to placing eyeliner underneath the eye, softer is better! A hard line under the lower lashes will drag the eye down and call attention to dark circles. Most eyeliner pencils come equipped with a smudger, but if yours does not, any eyeliner brush will do the trick.
Blend your concealer. Concealer under the eye should blend seamlessly with the rest of your face. Use your foundation brush to blur any obvious separation. The only thing worse than raccoon eyes is reverse raccoon eyes!
Rachel Paul is a New York based makeup artist, encouraging and training women to be their most beautiful self. Follow @rosecolored_glasses on Instagram.